THE “GUESTS” OF THE FUJIAN, Builders of the TU LOU

Series: Lovers of China

For this 1st invitation to travel, where LHCH lets itself be guided by Europeans who have truly set foot on Chinese soil, we are honored to welcome Michèle Koltz-Chedid, painter and photographer, daughter of the great French writer Andrée Chedid.

“You may not believe me but there is a region, in China, in the province of FUJIAN,Where old imperial ladies have always lived in UFO stowed on the ground!Except that over there, these dwellings are called “TULOU”!I’m not lying to you: I was there in Spring 2009 ** and I only dream of going back!These are huge dwellings, most of them circular, and some of which date from the 17th century.The walls are of compacted earth, reinforced with lime, sand, rice and bamboo.The roof, made of gray terracotta tiles, only borders the circumference of the building, giving way to an immense emptiness that would allow you to see all the interior space from very high up:small temple in the center and wooden floors all around; each assigned to a function (storing cereals, cleaning clothes; meals; bedrooms, etc.)Everything is beautiful, the landscape, the houses and their inhabitants, the “HAKKA”.Beautiful, peaceful and where you can still live on teas and cereals!We will offer you a hand filled with small, finely rolled balls: “Tie Guanyin Spring” tea.You will be proudly shown the colorful posters with Mao’s ensign and you will even be given the impression that he is still alive, time has stood still!But there is no question of getting rid of one of these posters because having them on your walls,Testifies to your loyalty.The younger generations visit their elders who are almost the only ones living there.We will list the names of these treasures without citing them all:ZHENGCHENGLO in Hukeng.The TIANLUOKENG complex, Nanping county, with the tulou HUAYUAN, HEGUI, SE CAI YI TONG (the most photographed);GAOBEI tulou *** (“the king of the tulou”) composed of a set: CHENGQI LO, SHIZE LO (where we met the two beauties of 86 years and 85 years), QIAFU LO, WU YUN LO (END OF THE MING TIME!).And, infinite luck, one can spend a few nights in a small monastic room, in the small tulou of the “Qingde” hotel, where even the cuisine is exquisite!

Michèle Koltz-Chedid

* “Hakka” translates to the word “guest”

** Listed as “World Heritage of Humanity by Unesco in 2008

*** Yongding, South West FujianEditor’s note: Hakka people’s constructions also exist in other provinces of China: Hunan, Jiangxi and Guangdong.

Editor’s note: Hakka people’s constructions also exist in other provinces of China: Hunan, Jiangxi and Guangdong.

Photo copyright : Liu Li

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